
The coast path runs both ways out of the harbour, and a flat valley trail runs inland — a walk for every pair of legs.
I knew these paths in the dark, with a keg on my back and good reason not to meet anyone — no moon, no landing, so the black nights were the working ones. You will have an easier time of it in daylight. Go south over the hill for the drama, north along the cliffs for the birds, or up the valley if the knees have had enough of hills.
The coast path south climbs out of the village up Polkirt Hill, drops to Portmellon and its one pub over the beach, then rounds Chapel Point — a headland you can reach on foot without a car — and carries on to Gorran Haven, a little harbour village with a beach at the end of it. It is the finer of the two walks, and the more up-and-down.
North, the path runs along the cliffs toward Pentewan and its long beach. Keep going and you reach Black Head, a bold headland that is one of the best spots near here for birds of prey. This stretch, like the rest, is part of the South West Coast Path that runs the whole way round the peninsula.
For a flat walk — or a bike ride — the Pentewan Valley Trail follows an old railway line and the river inland through King's Wood, between Pentewan and St Austell. There is cycle hire by the bridge, and narrower off-piste paths through the woods for anyone who wants them.
And Polstreath, the rugged beach within walking distance of the village, is reached down a long cliff staircase — worth it, but take the steps slowly.
A self-catering cottage in St Austell Bay with sea views, a large garden and parking, close to the beach and the coast path. Book direct with the owner.
Book direct with the ownerMevagissey Harbour — a guide to the village, the bay and the people who worked it.